Off we go! Finally managed to get away from the marina at Dubrovnik after a full week getting ready and doing lots of maintenance jobs. After a quick trip to the supermarket for last minute provisions we had a brilliant sail, tacking up the canal to a fabulous anchorage behind a small island at Luka Prozura, an attractive bay with some holiday homes surrounding it.
The following morning we left quite early aiming to get to Korcula but the wind wasn’t quite in the right direction so we only made it as far as the north end of the island of Mljet. We had another exciting sail and by the end of the day the sea had begun to build significantly and it got very lumpy at the headland. However we persevered and managed to find another great sheltered anchorage at Luka Pomena.We anchored and Justin swam ashore with a line. We were joined by a very small trimaran which had sailed from Italy and 5 people emerged from the cabin! Boating is just such great fun!
We left Mljet in the morning in much calmer weather, however the wind increased throughout the day and we had another great sail arriving mid afternoon to anchor in a small sheltered bay close to the beautiful town of Korcula. We launched the dinghy and went ashore to get rid of the rubbish and have an ice cream from the camp site cafe. A bavaria 44 like ours had been left in the bay unattended and slipped its anchor almost ending up on the beach – we were about to go and rescue it when the crew returned – very young and clueless I'm afraid. The wind remained strong for most of the night but didn’t disturb us too much because we were already being kept awake by the camp site disco! We also had a visit from the port authorities who charged us 150 Kuna for the anchorage!
After a quick breakfast we took the dinghy ashore and walked the 1/2 mile into Korcula. What a beautiful town. Had a walk around the old town and had a pancake and coffee for lunch over looking the bay. We stopped at a small outdoor market and bought figs and a basil plant from an old lady – just a mere 85 Kuna! Anyway the next door stall holder told us that she was rip off merchant and we managed to get our money back – only to buy the same from him for 60! (still very expensive – any way lesson learnt I think). Popped into the Konzum supermarket for a few other supplies and returned to the boat. Although the wind was still blowing hard we decided that we couldn’t do another disco night and 150 Kunas to the Port Authority was a bit steep, so we moved a couple of miles to anchor off an old Franciscan monastery on the island of Badija.
Although it said in the pilot book that it was now used as a sports centre. During the day, lots of tripper boats brought people for swimming and picnicking, but by 7.00pm it was just about deserted so we decided to go ashore for a look. We were walking around the monastery, which seemed to be in the process of being renovated when an old boy came out, and we said hello to him. It turned out that he was the Holy Father, and the monastery had been reconsecrated after 60 years of being used as a gymnasium by the communists for party workers. He took us inside and showed us the chapel and some of the work that was being done to restore it – wow! It was an amazing place, and quite moving to be shown the wilful damage to the works of art that had been caused by the communists, and how angry this priest was about it all. They had knocked the head off a statue of Mary with the baby Jesus, and inside they had converted one of the Lady chapels into a shower block and simply tiled over all of these priceless murals on the walls. The priest didn’t speak much English, but he was very happy to show us around, and as we left he gave us a book of prayer that he had written. We felt very privileged.
Next stop Hvar – a quick early morning swim and we left the beautiful monastery. the wind had abated and we had to motor over half of the way but the wind grew in the afternoon and we managed to sail the final 15 miles or so to Hvar. Brilliant – we sailed over 45 miles today! Anchored between some islands and Justin was sent ashore again with a line between his teeth.
After a slightly rocky night and an early start, at last we had the wind in the right direction and we managed to fly the cruising chute for most of the day – what a great sail! We arrived late afternoon at Trogir and had a quick look at the old town but decided to anchor in a more sheltered bay a couple of miles away. A fire had broken out on the Island and a couple of helicopters and a sea plane appeared to take water from the bay to douse the flames – very exciting!
Another early start and we decided to give the old town of Trogir a miss and maybe catch it on the way back down South. Unfortunately very little wind today so motored all of the way to the Sibenik estuary. The channel is very tight so we needed to proceed very carefully past the old fort and on into the larger part of the river and to the town of Sibenik. We spotted the fuel berth so decided to moor up, fuel up and try and get some water. The fuel attendant sent us to the end of another quay for water after fuelling up; we found the tap and duly filled the tanks. It was only after this that the Harbour Master pitched up, told us to move on and also charged us 60 Kuna for the water! Oh well, at least we can wash up and shower now!
We then made our way up river under the large road bridge to the small village of zaton. As we approached the bridge Helen noticed a couple of people right on the edge about to jump! Check out the photos – very exciting!
The pilot book says that you can anchor in the river off the village of Zaton so that is just what we did – no one else was doing it and it wasn’t until we were safely anchored in the middle of the river when we realised that we had anchored in the middle of a rowing lane! Oh well, no one moved us on and we were only hit by one coxless pair!
We went ashore for some provisions and got an early night in preparation for our trip up to the waterfalls at Skradin the following day.
We left Zaton early to enable us to have a full day in the Krka National Park. We motored to Skradin through some beautiful narrow gorges which opened out on to a lake with Skradin at the far side. We had been told that you weren’t allowed to anchor overnight at Skradin, but we arrived fairly early, and there were lots of very sleepy looking boats anchored opposite the town, so I guess local officials have decided that the money the crews of 20 or so boats bring to the town each night is worth whatever bylaw there is being broken.
Skradin is a very picturesque town and there are loads of swans begging at the back of the boats which Helen fed, but we were loathed to encourage them too much in case they decided they wanted to come on board and help themselves!
As soon as we were sure that the anchor was secure, we took the dinghy over to the town and bought tickets for the water taxi up the river into the Krka National Park – the only way in, private boats aren’t allowed.
After a short walk we came to some spectacular waterfalls caused by calcium deposits coming out of the water, and apparently they are still growing at the rate of 3mm per year. We were slightly overwhelmed by the number of people there were there, I suppose we have got used to the tranquillity of being on Belle Helene on our own, but it still couldn’t take away the splendour of the waterfalls. We walked up to the top and back down the other side to escape the crowds, and had lunch at the top. After all that exertion we were very hot, so we braved the crowds and went for a swim in the pool at the bottom of the falls. We were so glad we did, because you can only appreciate the power of the water when you are actually in it. It was incredible!
We then joined the queue for the water taxi back to Skradin, and the boat where we collapsed for an hour before returning to the town for some shopping and a beer! What a memorable day!
After leaving skradin in the morning we motored back down the river, through the gorges and across the lake to the mouth of the river where there was an old deserted fort. We anchored in its shadow and went ashore in the dinghy to explore. It is quite large and in a reasonable state of repair but parts of the interior looked (and smelt!) as though they had been used by generations as a toilet! On the top however the views were stunning, and it was a lovely anchorage to stop for lunch.
After that we set off southward for ‘home’. The winds were light and behind us so we decided to try the cruising chute, but by the time we had got it al rigged and ready the wind had dropped and changed direction – very frustrating! We ended up motor-sailing for the rest of the day. We arrived at a small island Luka Drevnik and were going to anchor just off the village but we potted a small breakwater where a number of other yachts were moored stern to. We decided that it was about time we gave this Mediterranean mooring a try as we will need to do it all of the time when we get to Greece. Helen dropped the anchor as Justin backed the boat cautiously into a slot on the quayside and then Helen tightened on the anchor chain – but-quelle domage, the anchor just wouldn't bite and just kept coming up. So we simply cast off and gave it another go – this time we were succesful and had a really lovely evening exploring the village, walking up to the local church and admiring the sunset. There was a very large stink boat moored alongside the breakwater next to us, taking up about 4 spaces, so the harbourmaster politely asked him to moor stern to like the rest of us. The Italians took exception to this and one of the women on board started shouting and flicking ‘V’s at the harbourmaster and his wife! Needless to say they weren’t impressed and left to get reinforcements but the Italians clearly had got the message and beat a hasty retreat out to sea! It was incredible how rude they were over such a simple reasonable request! Oh well all good entertainment!
Next morning we were up bright and early and underway by 8.30 am. As soon as we got out of the bay the wind got up to a pleasant 8 knots so the sails went up and we decided to try the cruising chute again. We had the most amazing 4 hours sailing at about 6 knots and even though I say this myself we looked pretty amazing in our colourful regalia!
Helen was just getting herself settled on the front deck for a spot of sunbathing when there was a massive bang as the cruising chute clutch gave way and the whole lot came down! She has never moved so fast! he quickly got to the helm whilst Justin tried to haul the chute back up out of the water and back onto deck. Luckily it wasn’t fully submerged and was able to tame the beast quite easily and thankfully no harm was done. Another important lesson learned – never rely on cheap clutches, always have a back up and don’t try to fly the cruising chute in more that 15 knots of wind!
After we put the chute to bed, we sailed in a stiff breeze with a following sea all the way into our next anchorage at St. Ivan on Korcula. A brilliant 8 hour sail, 42.5 miles covered. Fantastic!
Next morning we headed off to Pomena on the Island of Mljet. What a difference a day makes – no wind, flat glass like seas – we motored all the way, sunbathing, reading and dolphin spotting and arrived in Pomena at about 4 pm. Every where was eerily quiet - the last time we were here 10 days ago there were 30 boats at anchor in the bay, and this time just us and a massive stink boat. At sunset, they left leaving us alone in the bay – wonderful! We took the dinghy ashore round to the little town and had a beer in a bar watching the sun go down – beautiful!
By the morning the weather had changed and the forecast was for thunderstorms and gale force winds for the evening – time to leave so we made a dash for the marina in Dubrovnik – motored into the wind and sea for 35 miles but made it back before the ‘Bora’ wind struck. Now waiting for a change in the weather before we head South to Corfu – hopefully Wednesday….
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