Kalymnos

The weather was due to change and strong southerlies were forecast the following day so we made for the town of Kalymnos which was a ‘safe’ port with reasonable shelter at all times, according to the pilot book! Unfortunately the ‘safe’ area of the port had been completely taken over by hundreds of small local fishing boats. A new quay has been built for visiting yachts, but unfortunately it faces the opening of the harbour which is due south allowing southerly winds and the associated seas straight in making the mooring untenable for yachts.

We were fine for the first night with light winds but the following morning, the winds started to blow and the swell increased dramatically. The local boats started to up anchor and move so we decided to do the same and try and find some shelter elsewhere in the port. One of the locals suggested we go and moor under the harbour wall in the commercial docks, which we consequently did, going alongside the quay in the company of two large fishing boats, a ferry and a very large cargo ship. We were somewhat dwarfed but luckily the wind was holding us off the quay avoiding any damage – uncomfortable but safe. Another English couple, Bill and Janet, on their yacht ‘Halcyon Daze’ were also struggling to find a suitable mooring and had already been moved on twice by the port police. They came alongside and we all sat it out overnight, with high winds, heavy rain and big seas crashing over the harbour wall, directly onto our boats! Not a pleasant night, particularly as the port police came and told us to move on as he had a large fishing boat due on that mooring! Luckily after some careful negotiation, we were given permission to stay – whew! Helen says that she would rather have gone to prison than move! We all kept our heads down when the trawler eventually arrived and tried to get into our spot.. very tense!

The following day, the winds subsided, the rain stopped and the sun came out – amazing what a few hours can do. The winds changed direction and the seas calmed completely allowing us to leave the docks and return to the visitors moorings.

That evening we joined Bill and Janet on their boat for a couple of stiff gin and tonics. After a much calmer night, we left in brilliant sunshine, light winds and calm seas, heading for the town of Kos. I am not sure we will be returning to Kalymnos in a hurry!…